Fall Tour to Ohiopyle (November 2023)

11/13/2023 – 11/18/2023

Some photos and stories from a fall bike tour along the C&O canal and GAP trail:

Day 1: Harpers Ferry to Devil’s Alley campsite

86.6 miles / 7 hrs 53 mins

Liftoff! Running the lowrider front panniers and frame bag again. Taking the extra dry bag on top of the front rack and the rucsac to carry 7 full days of food and winter clothes.

Stunning views at the point, Harpers Ferry

Beautiful morning reflection on the Potomac, taken near Dargan

C&O Bicycle shop in Hancock, Maryland, where I stopped for a snack break

Riding the scenic Western Maryland Rail Trail, parallel to the C&O

Closing in on Devil’s Alley campsite as the light faded

Day 2: Devil’s Alley campsite to Evitt’s Creek campsite

36.0 miles / 3 hrs 33 mins

Beautiful morning light on the Potomac River from Devil’s Alley campsite

The highlight of day 2 was passing through Paw Paw tunnel again. This was my 3rd time through and it’s always impressive!

You approach the tunnel from the south through a rocky ravine, riding on a boardwalk above the canal. It’s a fantastic section of the trail.

Then you approach the tunnel proper. It’s a crazy feat of engineering given when it was built (work began in 1836 and the tunnel opened in 1850). It was one of the masterpieces of civil engineering in the mid-19th century:

Yes, it’s long. It’s very dark without lights. And almost certainly haunted.

The trail beyond the Paw Paw tunnel is very scenic and quiet.

The path becomes increasingly scenic (and quieter) as you get deeper into western Maryland.

Rocking the front low-rider panniers again. It worked really well on the test overnighter to Cumberland Valley last month.

Reflections in the canal at Evitt’s Creek campsite

Evitt’s Creek camp alongside the Potomac River

Day 3: Evitt’s Creek campsite to Ohiopyle State Park

78.9 miles / 7 hrs 14 mins

Strawberry Granola and coffee for breakfast

The bike was covered with a layer of frost as I set off

Mile 184 on the C&O canal, with Cumberland in the distance

Cumberland, Maryland, where the C&O and GAP trails connect

I stopped for a coffee in Cumberland and swapped the bumpy C&O canal for the smooth crushed limestone surface of the GAP trail.

The first 22 miles of the GAP trail are all uphill, at a gentle 1 – 2% gradient. Just enough for you to notice but it’s not too hard. It’s a long climb though, alongside the rail tracks for 12 miles or so. It’s a lovely ride.

Enjoying the change of scenery and smooth surface of the GAP trail.

I passed the Mason-Dixon line and officially left the south of the US and entered the north.

Shortly after, I reached the best lookout of the trip, at Big Savage mountain, just before Big Savage tunnel.

Under the mountain I go. Entering Big Savage tunnel

The very long, but not so dark, Big Savage tunnel.

Just beyond Big Savage tunnel, I crossed the Continental Divide, the high point of the route. Any hopes of a freewheeling, coasting descent down the other side were quickly dashed however. The gradient is so gentle (around 0.5%) that you hardly notice a change. Unfortunately, you still have to pedal. It’s perhaps 5% easier though.

Crossing Salisbury viaduct, which offered extensive views over the plains

It was warm enough for shorts, which was nice contrast to the 27F morning!

Dollar General in Confluence where I stopped to buy water

I left Confluence in the last of the daylight and rode into Ohiopyle State Park under lights

Riding into the night through Ohiopyle State Park. 90% fun, 10% intimidating.

Day 4: Ohiopyle State Park to Big Savage mountain

53.5 miles / 5 hrs 20 mins

I turned around at High Bridge biker campsite, making Ohiopyle the furthest point from home of this tour.

The campsite was wonderful. Nestled in the woods, just off the GAP trail. I had it to myself and I enjoyed the sun rising over the ridge line to warm me up while I had breakfast.

High Bridge biker campsite, morning of day 4

Another cold start on the morning of day 4

The Casselman River from Pinkerton High Bridge

Heading back through Big Savage tunnel on this return journey

Beautiful evening view from Big Savage lookout

Dinner and a book before turning in for the night.

As the sun set, the forest behind my tent came alive. The rustling began in earnest and the darkness magnified every sound until I convinced myself that bears were all around. In all likelihood, the noises were mostly squirrels and perhaps a few deer.

At one point, I let out a few wolf howles “arooo, arooo, aroooooooo” to let animals know I was there. I nearly jumped out of my skin when something howled back from the woods. To this day, I’ve no idea what it was but I didn’t dare make that noise again. LOL.

Day 5: Big Savage mountain to Indigo Neck campsite

68.1 miles / 5 hrs 28 mins

The sunrise at Big Savage lived up to expectations. It was magnificent. I got up early, just as the first slivers of purple and orange appeared on the horizon. Distant ridgelines and layers of cloud combined to make a spectacular palette. A worthy backdrop to breakfast that morning.

It was a beautiful morning from Big Savage lookout!

Best coffee spot of the trip! Big Savage mountain overlook at dawn on day 5

After striking camp, it was 22 miles downhill into Cumberland. It wasn’t steep enough to freewheel, but it was easy pedaling and the fastest average speed of the trip. Cor blimey, it was cold though!

After another coffee stop in Cumberland, it was back onto the C&O canal.