11/13/2023 – 11/18/2023
Some photos and stories from a fall bike tour along the C&O canal and GAP trail:
Day 1: Harpers Ferry to Devil’s Alley campsite
86.6 miles / 7 hrs 53 mins
Day 2: Devil’s Alley campsite to Evitt’s Creek campsite
36.0 miles / 3 hrs 33 mins
The highlight of day 2 was passing through Paw Paw tunnel again. This was my 3rd time through and it’s always impressive!
You approach the tunnel from the south through a rocky ravine, riding on a boardwalk above the canal. It’s a fantastic section of the trail.
Then you approach the tunnel proper. It’s a crazy feat of engineering given when it was built (work began in 1836 and the tunnel opened in 1850). It was one of the masterpieces of civil engineering in the mid-19th century:
The trail beyond the Paw Paw tunnel is very scenic and quiet.
Day 3: Evitt’s Creek campsite to Ohiopyle State Park
78.9 miles / 7 hrs 14 mins
I stopped for a coffee in Cumberland and swapped the bumpy C&O canal for the smooth crushed limestone surface of the GAP trail.
The first 22 miles of the GAP trail are all uphill, at a gentle 1 – 2% gradient. Just enough for you to notice but it’s not too hard. It’s a long climb though, alongside the rail tracks for 12 miles or so. It’s a lovely ride.
I passed the Mason-Dixon line and officially left the south of the US and entered the north.
Shortly after, I reached the best lookout of the trip, at Big Savage mountain, just before Big Savage tunnel.
Just beyond Big Savage tunnel, I crossed the Continental Divide, the high point of the route. Any hopes of a freewheeling, coasting descent down the other side were quickly dashed however. The gradient is so gentle (around 0.5%) that you hardly notice a change. Unfortunately, you still have to pedal. It’s perhaps 5% easier though.
Day 4: Ohiopyle State Park to Big Savage mountain
53.5 miles / 5 hrs 20 mins
I turned around at High Bridge biker campsite, making Ohiopyle the furthest point from home of this tour.
The campsite was wonderful. Nestled in the woods, just off the GAP trail. I had it to myself and I enjoyed the sun rising over the ridge line to warm me up while I had breakfast.
As the sun set, the forest behind my tent came alive. The rustling began in earnest and the darkness magnified every sound until I convinced myself that bears were all around. In all likelihood, the noises were mostly squirrels and perhaps a few deer.
At one point, I let out a few wolf howles “arooo, arooo, aroooooooo” to let animals know I was there. I nearly jumped out of my skin when something howled back from the woods. To this day, I’ve no idea what it was but I didn’t dare make that noise again. LOL.
Day 5: Big Savage mountain to Indigo Neck campsite
68.1 miles / 5 hrs 28 mins
The sunrise at Big Savage lived up to expectations. It was magnificent. I got up early, just as the first slivers of purple and orange appeared on the horizon. Distant ridgelines and layers of cloud combined to make a spectacular palette. A worthy backdrop to breakfast that morning.
After striking camp, it was 22 miles downhill into Cumberland. It wasn’t steep enough to freewheel, but it was easy pedaling and the fastest average speed of the trip. Cor blimey, it was cold though!
After another coffee stop in Cumberland, it was back onto the C&O canal.
Day 6: Indigo Neck campsite to home
84.8 miles / 7 hrs 20 mins