Category Archives: Biking

Fall Tour to Ohiopyle (November 2023)

11/13/2023 – 11/18/2023

Some photos and stories from a fall bike tour along the C&O canal and GAP trail:

Day 1: Harpers Ferry to Devil’s Alley campsite

86.6 miles / 7 hrs 53 mins

Liftoff! Running the lowrider front panniers and frame bag again. Taking the extra dry bag on top of the front rack and the rucsac to carry 7 full days of food and winter clothes.
Stunning views at the point, Harpers Ferry
Beautiful morning reflection on the Potomac, taken near Dargan
I love riding in the fall.
The raised towpath at Big Slackwater
Williamsport basin
C&O Bicycle shop in Hancock, Maryland, where I stopped for a snack break
Riding the scenic Western Maryland Rail Trail, parallel to the C&O
Gorgeous evening on the WMRT
Closing in on Devil’s Alley campsite as the light faded
Cooking dinner in the dark!

Day 2: Devil’s Alley campsite to Evitt’s Creek campsite

36.0 miles / 3 hrs 33 mins

5* accommodation on the canal
Breakfast in bed
Beautiful morning light on the Potomac River from Devil’s Alley campsite

The highlight of day 2 was passing through Paw Paw tunnel again. This was my 3rd time through and it’s always impressive!

You approach the tunnel from the south through a rocky ravine, riding on a boardwalk above the canal. It’s a fantastic section of the trail.

Then you approach the tunnel proper. It’s a crazy feat of engineering given when it was built (work began in 1836 and the tunnel opened in 1850). It was one of the masterpieces of civil engineering in the mid-19th century:

Approaching the tunnel entrance
Yes, it’s long. It’s very dark without lights. And almost certainly haunted.
Tuna pita bread for lunch. Delicious!

The trail beyond the Paw Paw tunnel is very scenic and quiet.

The path becomes increasingly scenic (and quieter) as you get deeper into western Maryland.
Rocking the front low-rider panniers again. It worked really well on the test overnighter to Cumberland Valley last month.
Reflections in the canal at Evitt’s Creek campsite
Evitt’s Creek camp alongside the Potomac River

Day 3: Evitt’s Creek campsite to Ohiopyle State Park

78.9 miles / 7 hrs 14 mins

Cold morning, around 27F
Strawberry Granola and coffee for breakfast
The bike was covered with a layer of frost as I set off
Mile 184 on the C&O canal, with Cumberland in the distance
Cumberland, Maryland, where the C&O and GAP trails connect

I stopped for a coffee in Cumberland and swapped the bumpy C&O canal for the smooth crushed limestone surface of the GAP trail.

The first 22 miles of the GAP trail are all uphill, at a gentle 1 – 2% gradient. Just enough for you to notice but it’s not too hard. It’s a long climb though, alongside the rail tracks for 12 miles or so. It’s a lovely ride.

On to the GAP trail
Enjoying the change of scenery and smooth surface of the GAP trail.

I passed the Mason-Dixon line and officially left the south of the US and entered the north.

At the Mason-Dixon line

Shortly after, I reached the best lookout of the trip, at Big Savage mountain, just before Big Savage tunnel.

The lookout at Big Savage vista
Under the mountain I go. Entering Big Savage tunnel
The very long, but not so dark, Big Savage tunnel.

Just beyond Big Savage tunnel, I crossed the Continental Divide, the high point of the route. Any hopes of a freewheeling, coasting descent down the other side were quickly dashed however. The gradient is so gentle (around 0.5%) that you hardly notice a change. Unfortunately, you still have to pedal. It’s perhaps 5% easier though.

The Eastern Continental Divide
Crossing Salisbury viaduct, which offered extensive views over the plains
It was warm enough for shorts, which was nice contrast to the 27F morning!
Dollar General in Confluence where I stopped to buy water
I left Confluence in the last of the daylight and rode into Ohiopyle State Park under lights
Riding into the night through Ohiopyle State Park. 90% fun, 10% intimidating.

Day 4: Ohiopyle State Park to Big Savage mountain

53.5 miles / 5 hrs 20 mins

I turned around at High Bridge biker campsite, making Ohiopyle the furthest point from home of this tour.

The campsite was wonderful. Nestled in the woods, just off the GAP trail. I had it to myself and I enjoyed the sun rising over the ridge line to warm me up while I had breakfast.

High Bridge biker campsite, morning of day 4
Another cold start on the morning of day 4
The Casselman River from Pinkerton High Bridge
Wonderful scenery along the GAP trail
Heading back through Big Savage tunnel on this return journey
Beautiful evening view from Big Savage lookout
Dinner and a book before turning in for the night.

As the sun set, the forest behind my tent came alive. The rustling began in earnest and the darkness magnified every sound until I convinced myself that bears were all around. In all likelihood, the noises were mostly squirrels and perhaps a few deer.

At one point, I let out a few wolf howles “arooo, arooo, aroooooooo” to let animals know I was there. I nearly jumped out of my skin when something howled back from the woods. To this day, I’ve no idea what it was but I didn’t dare make that noise again. LOL.

Day 5: Big Savage mountain to Indigo Neck campsite

68.1 miles / 5 hrs 28 mins

The sunrise at Big Savage lived up to expectations. It was magnificent. I got up early, just as the first slivers of purple and orange appeared on the horizon. Distant ridgelines and layers of cloud combined to make a spectacular palette. A worthy backdrop to breakfast that morning.

Dawn on day 5
It was a beautiful morning from Big Savage lookout!
Best coffee spot of the trip! Big Savage mountain overlook at dawn on day 5
Sun rising at Big Savage overlook

After striking camp, it was 22 miles downhill into Cumberland. It wasn’t steep enough to freewheel, but it was easy pedaling and the fastest average speed of the trip. Cor blimey, it was cold though!

After another coffee stop in Cumberland, it was back onto the C&O canal.

Lock 70 at Oldtown
Super riding through one of the more remote sections of the canal, between Oldtown and Paw Paw.
Passing back through the Paw Paw tunnel.
Nearly there!

Day 6: Indigo Neck campsite to home

84.8 miles / 7 hrs 20 mins

The tent at Indigo Neck hiker biker campsite on the C&O
Cooking a final breakfast of the trip
Passing the ruins of Round Top Cement Mill
It was past the peak foliage but the fall colors were still stunning.
I haven’t had a McDonalds for years, but it’s always a tradition to have a Big Mac on long expeditions so I kept this alive with a stop in Williamsport on my way through.
The section of trail at Big Slackwater never disappoints.
Smiling because I’m so close to home now!
Caught out by the short days again, I rode the last hour in the dark.

Route

C&O Cumberland Valley Fall Overnighter

30 – 31 October 2023

A video and photo essay from a quick overnight bike tour. I left around 3pm on Monday and was home less than 24 hours later. It’s phenomenal how much adventure and inspiration you can pack into such a short window.

Day 1: Harpers Ferry to Cumberland Valley Hiker Biker campsite

36.86 miles / 124 ft ascent / 3 hrs 15 minutes moving / 3 hrs 51 minutes elapsed

Day 1 was a race against time to make it to the campsite before dark. I made it with just enough time to pitch my tent, but cooked and ate in the dark. I ended up pitching my tent in the exact same spot that I used on the first night of last year’s Bike SUP tour.

Heading upstream towards Shepherdstown
Lockhouse at Canal Lock 37, near Dargan
The Surly Grappler in full cry
Glad I threw this light rain jacket in at the last second as I was drenched by a couple of showers during the afternoon.
The leaves were inches thick on the ground in places. Slightly surreal, like riding on snow. Beautiful conditions.
Moody sky from dam 4
The super cool raised towpath above the river at Big Slackwater, one of the highlights of the whole C&O canal towpath.
Looking downstream at Big Slackwater
Lockhouse at Canal Lock 43
Racing to beat the darkness and get to Cumberland Valley hiker biker campsite
Camp at Cumberland Valley Hiker Biker campsite
Pro tip for getting water from the pumps… use a funnel to speed up the process!
Making dinner in the dark. The chili dish was delicious.

Day 2: Cumberland Valley to Williamsport, then return to Harpers Ferry

47.85 miles / 431 ft ascent / 4 hrs 29 minutes moving / 6 hrs 8 minutes elapsed

It was fairly cold in the morning so I didn’t rush. I enjoyed breakfast from the warmth of my sleeping bag before breaking camp. I rode up to Williamsport to check it out before turning around and riding home.

Camp on the morning of day 2
Breakfast on day 2
Back in my sleeping bag to enjoy the coffee! ☕
Good morning from camp on day 2
Beautiful sunrise on the river. So calm and peaceful!
Stunning morning on the Potomac River
Passing under the I81 bridge on the way up to Williamsport
Conococheague Aqueduct at Williamsport, where I turned around for home.
The derelict R. Paul Smith Power Station at Williamsport
Lock 44 on the C&O canal
Mile 92.5, the mid-point of the C&O canal
Back at Big Slackwater but heading downstream, and the sun is shining! The section around Big Slackwater never disappoints.
Riding the elevated trail at Big Slackwater, one of the best sections of the C&O Canal
McMahon’s Mill
Cave biking? Exploring one of the many caves along this section of the route
One of the bigger caves
Crunching across a carpet of golden leaves
Time for a final brew before home, at Big Woods campsite
The serene Potomac River from near Dargan

Bike Setup

For this tour, I ran a set of front low rider panniers to hold sleeping gear and clothes. They’re a pair of 20-year old Vaude Sport panniers — veterans of my Norway tour — that are still going strong!

The Revelate Designs main triangle frame bag held camp stuff and tent poles. The seat pack held the tent and cook pot. I used the extra bottle bosses on the rear triangle to hold two bottles, although they were inaccessible whilst riding. But that’s not an issue on a tour like this where I’m making frequent stops to explore and take photos.

The bike felt super stable, if a little heavy.

C&O and W&OD trail loop to DC and back

30 September 2023

Bike / 141.7 miles / 3,265 ft ascent / 11 hrs 05 min moving / 12 hrs 54 min elapsed

Feeling vaguely fit after the recent Gran Fondo ride, I wanted to tick off another big ride before the end of the summer.

I’ve ridden a similar loop to this one twice before, although starting from DC both times and turning around at Point of Rocks rather than Harpers Ferry (first time was a 2-day tour, second time as a 130+ mile single day).

I left early, but not alpine-start early now that the heat was back to normal levels instead of head-meltingly hot. As I rode the C&O canal into DC, I thought there was no way I could complete the full distance. I just didn’t feel that good. But I reminded myself that it often feels like this on longer rides, you just gotta ride into it. Sure enough, as I got further into the ride I actually felt better. Miles 20 – 40 were some of the hardest of the whole ride.

At Brunswick 7.30am. Feeling ok, but honestly feeling like I had no idea how I was going to ride 140 miles that day. The only thing you can do is ride to the next checkpoint, then keep going and pick off the next one. Repeat until you get to the end of the ride. Simple, really.
Point of Rocks bridge in the morning light
My trusty Cannondale Caadx, still going strong after 10 years. A perfect bike for this kind of mixed surface riding.
Potomac River Gorge, from Mary’s Wall in Great Falls Park
Enjoying the serenity for a few seconds. Great Falls is always crowded on the weekend.
Lockhouse 6 along the C&O canal

I had a great cake and coffee stop in Georgetown, DC, at High Road Cycling cafe. I was envious of the cyclists who get to ride from there and hang out there. But 5 minutes later, when I was dealing with the DC traffic, I realized that it’s a perk I’m willing to sacrifice to live out in the countryside where the riding is 🤌

Coffee and cake in Georgetown at the excellent High Road Cycling cafe

The section through DC on the Mount Vernon trail was pure madness on this Saturday lunchtime. Bikes and people flying in every direction, strollers meandering aimlessly through bike lanes, people stepping out to take selfies, etc., etc. You gotta keep your wits about you!

It quietened down when I turned on to the Four Mile run trail and then the W&OD.

Rosslyn skyline from the DC side of the Potomac River. Lots of memories from living here.
The Washington Monument from the Mount Vernon trail. Very busy on a Saturday afternoon.

From the Mount Vernon trail, I jumped across to the much quieter Four Mile Run trail, which follows the Four Mile Run creek. It’s surprisingly wild amongst the dense suburbia on each side. I love these kinds of trails that snake through dense urban areas, which I think stems from when I lived in London and used to explore the canals of East London.

Four Mile Run trail

I really enjoyed riding the W&OD again, such a great trail. It gets better as you get further out, with fewer road intersections and fewer people. I rode slowly to ensure I had enough energy to make it home. Didn’t want to collapse into a heap on the side of the road somewhere and have to call for a pick up.

The half-way point and feeling somewhat relieved to have made it this far. 70 miles down, 70 to go!
The W&OD trail is a fantastic trail through the super busy NoVA area.
Miles and miles of this. Very scenic, if you can look past the powerlines. It felt interminable though, with the mile markers passing very slowly.
Plenty of history along the route, although I just kept cycling and snapped this pic as I went past. Someday I’ll learn to slow down and take it all in 😉
Smiths Switch Station, where I refilled with water
Between Leesburg and Purcellville, the trail is very pretty.
One of the hardest aspects of these longer rides is taking on enough calories. After a while, all the energy bars and electrolyte drinks become unpalatable. Time to go back to basics with a ham and cheese bagel!

At the end of the W&OD, I had 20 miles of backroads to reach the C&O again. I didn’t know what to expect, I was mostly just hoping that the traffic was light. And gladly, it was! The roads were fantastic for riding (if you like gravel) and, apart from a few mega bumpy washouts, were in good shape. Plus, the evening light was divine so that was a nice bonus.

From Purcellville I had ~25 miles to get home, mostly on super quiet back roads, most of which were gravel.
Beautiful evening for a ride and still feeling quite chipper after 110 miles
The scenery and evening light were sublime, making for really fun miles.
Cruising along the gravel roads and enjoying the views

I raced to Brunswick to see if I could catch the sunset from a vantage point by the river, but this train crossing thwarted me. I was stuck here for 5 minutes. When I reached the canal again, I raced to find a break in the trees to see the sunset but I was slightly too late. C’est la vie!

Brunswick train crossing
Final miles along the canal to race home. It was much darker than the photo suggests by this point.
The best sunset photo I could get… in person, it was beautiful.

After all that sprinting, I realized I was pretty tired, so I cruised the last couple of miles to home under lights.

Great day out on the bike!

I think I’ll make this an annual ride and try to do it a little quicker next time.

Route Map

Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/9952283882

Gran Fondo Maryland (September 2023)

Event: Gran Fondo Maryland
Distance: 97 miles
Ascent: ~10,000ft ascent
Time: 8 hrs 1 min riding time (8 hrs 45 min total time)

Ten years ago I had an absolute blast riding the Gran Fondo New York (editor’s note: it was miserable sufferfest in terrible weather, where Ben was woefully underdressed and shivering so hard at the finish he could hardly get the finisher’s dinner pasta from the bowl to his mouth. So yeah, good times! ).

At the beginning of the year, the Gran Fondo Maryland race popped on to my radar. A long, challenging race happening nearby? That sounds fun!

So on a whim, I signed up. And me being me, I signed up for the longest distance on offer, the whole enchilada. Basically a century ride (100 miles distance) with 10k ft ascent. A huge ride (for me). Especially given that the longest ride I’d done in the past 8 years was a 60 miler with less than 1,000 ft ascent. No problem!

After signing up, I made a vague promise to myself to cycle more, so I upped my riding from 2 short rides per week to 3 short rides per week. I then promptly forgot all about it.

Fast forward to May when I rode 82 miles along the C&O canal as part of the Hancock tour. It was hard! And it was flat! My legs were empty by the time I reached Harpers Ferry and the final hill, and only hill I hasten to add, was a killer.

Remembering that I’d signed up for this Gran Fondo, I realized that I needed to up my training game if I was going to finish.

Oh, and what about my knees? Would they survive? Ever since I wrecked them by going from zero to running 25 miles/week in 2019 (d’oh, you idiot!), I’ve been managing them carefully. Cycling is much, much easier on the body than running, so I had that in my favor. And so far, although they occasionally ache after a ride, they’ve never stopped me from finishing a ride.

Anyway, so that was the reality going into summer. Distinctly average, middle-aged dadbod fitness levels and dodgy knees. (Note to self: this is as good as it gets. Be grateful that I’m able to get out and do this stuff still. Work hard to ensure I can do it for as long as possible.)

I made more of an effort to fit in some longer rides over the summer: more 30 – 40 milers up and down the local hills, plus a few longer rides: a 60 miler around Sugarloaf mountain, an 80-mile off-road adventure, and a ridiculously hot, flat 110 miler along the canal.

I was ready and raring to go definitely not ready.

Two weeks before, I thought seriously about cancelling or at least downgrading to the 60-mile distance, but my laziness condemned me to the long route. Death or glory then, as the Lancers would say.

Race Day

I woke at 5:30am on Sunday, 17th September. Game day!

There were some nerves. I packed and re-packed. I shuffled stuff between bags and generally fretted like I was preparing for an exam, not a fun bike ride. I was ridiculously over-prepared (although that didn’t stop me forgetting things).

My nerves calmed as I pulled into the parking lot near the start. There were tons of other cyclists milling around. This was good, at least I was in the right place. But they all looked so serious! I felt some imposter syndrome. At least nobody would mistake me for a fast rider though, given my old bike and sartorial faux-pas, like short black socks that screamed AMATEUR.

After watching the fast boys and girls leave at 8 am, I made my way to the very back of the starting corral, with all the other folks here for a good time and not taking it too seriously. There were people of all different shapes and sizes, with a weird mix of attire and bikes too. Everything from entry-level road bikes to $15k super bikes.

There was an air of excitement and nervous anticipation within the “peloton”. After some announcements and mandatory safety briefing (“be safe out there. Don’t be a dickhead!” sort of thing), we were off!

We rolled slowly down Fleming Avenue, picking up speed as we left Frederick behind. The line of riders stretched far ahead of me up the road. And presumably behind me too. (Although not that far because I was pretty near the back.)

Soon, the peloton split into lots of little groups. I rode this section alongside a friendly chap called Scott and we chatted most of the way up the first climb. The timed section was the top 6 miles of the climb, with about 1,200 ft ascent. About 3 or 4 times as big as the biggest hill I ride on any of my usual loops.

Riders were everywhere. Groaning, cursing, smiling, a bit of everything. I overtook lots of people and was overtaken by other, faster climbers. This was probably the hardest climb of the entire route (although I didn’t know that at the time). I remember thinking how on earth would I do this for another 90 miles! Riding with lots of other riders helped though: I could see everyone else suffering similarly.

The rain began in earnest on the way up the climb so everyone started talking about how sketchy the descents would be. They were very wet. And there were wet leaves all over the place. But they were fine if you rode conservatively.

I was happy to reach the first aid station, for a loo break and some snacks. I’d ridden for 2 hours without a stop and I was soaked through. As was everyone else.

It was at this moment I realized I’d forgotten my Skratch electrolyte drink refills. Dang! But no worries, they have Hammer electrolyte on tap. Blurgh, that stuff is gross though, like drinking super sweet fruit juice. But, beggars can’t be choosers and it was preferable to getting cramps later in the race.

After stuffing my face with peanut butter sandwiches, I set off, with two full bottles of Hammer, soon wishing I’d filled one bottle with only water.

Truthfully, I don’t remember a great deal about this section of the ride. The time seemed to fly by, just me and a few other mad cyclists jabbing away at our pedals as the tarmac slid beneath our wheels.

The road went up. The road went down. But mostly it went up. It was very scenic though, even with the low cloud.

We had a break in the rain for a couple of hours, which was pleasant. But it began again in earnest as we reached the northern zenith of the loop, just brushing up to the MD/PA state border.

Another aid station came and went. Another handful of peanut butter sandwiches were stuffed down my hungry gob along with some chocolate wafers. Long rides (and walks) are great mostly for the reason you can eat as much as you want.

Then it was onto some of the gravel backroads as we made our way into the mountainous Catoctin Mountain Park region (incidentally, where Lexi and I got engaged! ❤️).

The cloud came in thick and reduced visibility. With the rain falling heavily, I could barely see out of my glasses.

I had to look over the top of my glasses to see anything.

And that’s my helmet strap down the side of my face by the way, not some crazy sideburn that I’m growing. Just wanted to clear that up.

I really enjoyed this section. Very few cars. No houses. Just an empty road through a beautiful forest.

The downhill was fast and cold.

There were only a handful of other riders about. Just enough to reassure me I was still on course, or in fact, that I was in mass participation race at all. More than once it felt like I was just out there doing my own training ride.

Again, the strange time dilation effect was happening, where I wasn’t really aware of the passage of time. I’d been riding for 5hrs, 6hrs, 7hrs, but it only felt like a couple of hours at most.

It was only when I reached the final aid station, at mile 86 with 11 to go, that I finally allowed myself to think about the finish. Before that it felt like I would be tempting fate.

The rain didn’t let up until the very end. My legs felt surprisingly strong in these final miles. Being wet and cold had been the bigger challenge of the day. But being a Brit, I love these miserable conditions. Reminds me of summer back home.

One short, punchy climb remained and then some faster, flat and downhill sections carried me into Frederick. I was in a pack of 5 or 6 other cyclists, stragglers like me, coming in towards the back of the group but elated to finish nonetheless.

And then, abruptly, it was over. Just like that. I rolled across the finish line, after 97 miles of riding, to see Lexi and the boys standing in the rain and cheering for me. What a welcoming party! Wonderful!

I’m proud I finished it, especially given the weather. I rode conservatively to give myself the best chance of completing it, which was the right strategy.

So, another cold, wet and shivery Gran Fondo in the bag, 10 years after the last one.

Will I do it again?

You betcha! And hopefully, sooner than 10 years this time.

In fact, I plan to return to this one next year to see if I can ride it quicker.

Photos: Ben Collins and First Place Photo.

Route

https://www.strava.com/activities/9870346199

DC and Urbana Century Ride

4th September 2023

Bike / 109.8 miles / 1,550 ft ascent / 9 hrs 25 min moving / 11 hrs 45 min elapsed

What a great ride! My first century in almost a decade.

Like the Seneca ride, it was another super hot day (100F by the end), which made it hard work for the last couple of hours. My legs felt great but my head was fried by the time I reached Urbana. 🥵

I left at 4am to try to beat the heat, but as it was a full day outing it eventually got me!

Anyway, some photos from the day:

Riding along the canal under lights for the first 2 hours
Dawn breaking as I reached Monocacy Acqueduct
Liquid gold sunrise from White’s Ferry area
Zooming along the trail. Note the extra bottles carried on the front fork.
At a power line break I had a good view of the gorgeous sunrise.
The Surly Grappler eats this trail up for breakfast. Such a fun and comfortable bike to ride.
The still morning made for stunning reflection from Sycamore Landing.
Me!
The replica packet boat, the Charles F. Mercer, at Great Falls.
Potomac river channels just below Great Falls. Wild!
The towpath detour at Marsden Tract campground that took me up to Macarthur Boulevard (an integral part of the DC road riding scene). I remember lots of miles back and forth on this road in 2012/13.

I rode on for another 8 miles or so, to cross the DC boundary line. I remembered about a little overlook near Chain Bridge, which made for a convenient place to aim for. It also ensured that I rode all the way to DC.

Little Falls Overlook, just over the DC boundary line, looking towards Chain Bridge
The faithful bike in all terrain mode, with 5 bottles and a combination of Revelate and Rapha bags.
Turning around to head back upriver. Starting to heat up now!
The pretty little canal house at Lock 8.
About to pass back under the Capital Beltway.
The first water stop. I had finished all 5 bottles at this point, so I refilled all 5 here. It was 10:41 AM and getting really hot now.
Definitely still Type 1 fun at this stage!
FORÇATS DE LA ROUTE – CONVICTS OF THE ROAD
The well pump at Marble Quarry campsite where I refilled 3 more bottles and dunked another 4 over my head. This was mile 93 for me.

It was very hot by this point and my head was starting to ache. Thankfully, I was still mostly in the shade along the canal.

Just like they do in the Tour de France. It really works!

I turned off the canal at Monocacy Aqueduct and rode the back roads past Sugarloaf mountain to Urbana, to meet up with the family.

It’s a great route but I was definitely suffering under temps that approached 100F. Urgh!

Riding past Sugarloaf mountain, on the fantastic back roads.
The massively fun gravel road that winds around the base of Sugarloaf mountain. It has a lovely swoopy, fast descent for the second half.

Another tremendous ride exploring the countryside around me. My knees felt great all ride, so this gives me confidence to try some longer and hillier rides in the future.

Route Map

https://www.strava.com/activities/9784105338