Bike / 109.8 miles / 1,550 ft ascent / 9 hrs 25 min moving / 11 hrs 45 min elapsed
What a great ride! My first century in almost a decade.
Like the Seneca ride, it was another super hot day (100F by the end), which made it hard work for the last couple of hours. My legs felt great but my head was fried by the time I reached Urbana. 🥵
I left at 4am to try to beat the heat, but as it was a full day outing it eventually got me!
Anyway, some photos from the day:
Riding along the canal under lights for the first 2 hoursDawn breaking as I reached Monocacy AcqueductLiquid gold sunrise from White’s Ferry areaZooming along the trail. Note the extra bottles carried on the front fork.At a power line break I had a good view of the gorgeous sunrise.The Surly Grappler eats this trail up for breakfast. Such a fun and comfortable bike to ride.The still morning made for stunning reflection from Sycamore Landing.Me!The replica packet boat, the Charles F. Mercer, at Great Falls.Potomac river channels just below Great Falls. Wild!The towpath detour at Marsden Tract campground that took me up to Macarthur Boulevard (an integral part of the DC road riding scene). I remember lots of miles back and forth on this road in 2012/13.
I rode on for another 8 miles or so, to cross the DC boundary line. I remembered about a little overlook near Chain Bridge, which made for a convenient place to aim for. It also ensured that I rode all the way to DC.
Little Falls Overlook, just over the DC boundary line, looking towards Chain BridgeThe faithful bike in all terrain mode, with 5 bottles and a combination of Revelate and Rapha bags.Turning around to head back upriver. Starting to heat up now!The pretty little canal house at Lock 8.About to pass back under the Capital Beltway.The first water stop. I had finished all 5 bottles at this point, so I refilled all 5 here. It was 10:41 AM and getting really hot now.Definitely still Type 1 fun at this stage!FORÇATS DE LA ROUTE – CONVICTS OF THE ROADThe well pump at Marble Quarry campsite where I refilled 3 more bottles and dunked another 4 over my head. This was mile 93 for me.
It was very hot by this point and my head was starting to ache. Thankfully, I was still mostly in the shade along the canal.
Just like they do in the Tour de France. It really works!
I turned off the canal at Monocacy Aqueduct and rode the back roads past Sugarloaf mountain to Urbana, to meet up with the family.
It’s a great route but I was definitely suffering under temps that approached 100F. Urgh!
Riding past Sugarloaf mountain, on the fantastic back roads.The massively fun gravel road that winds around the base of Sugarloaf mountain. It has a lovely swoopy, fast descent for the second half.
Another tremendous ride exploring the countryside around me. My knees felt great all ride, so this gives me confidence to try some longer and hillier rides in the future.
This post is a collection of photos and anecdotes from a terrific week of horse riding on a dude ranch with my wife’s family.
Spectacular scenery on the drive from Jackson to Dubois
Arrival at Lazy L&B Ranch in Dubois, WY (Sunday)
After a spectacular drive past Grand Teton National Park and along the Wind River valley we arrived at Lazy L&B Ranch, our home for the week.
We were greeted with homemade cookies and hot tea, which bode well for the week ahead. The setting was idyllic. There was no cellphone reception and the only wifi was in the main lodge, so we were freed from our digital shackles for the week. Perfect!
The main lodge at Lazy L&B ranchYes, the fire was very welcome, even in the middle of August!
Day 1 (Monday 8/7): Stunning scenery, sore bums, and storms
We awoke to mixed weather for our first day of riding. Hot one minute, cold the next. Dry and wet. Calm and windy. It changed every 30 minutes.
Spear Creek and the storm on the afternoon of day 1
It was time to don our new cowboy boots, mount our horses and head off into the wilderness!
There’s no gentle introduction. Immediately after leaving the ranch we cross Spear Creek. Hang on tight, here we go!
I didn’t have any expectations coming into the week — and honestly, was apprehensive about riding horses again after a break of probably 30+ years — so I was pleasantly surprised how rugged and adventurous the rides were.
Our first of many crossings of Spear Creek on the horses, moments after leaving the ranchA 3,000 year old petroglyph carved into the rock cliffs above Spear Creek (a reproduction can be seen above the fireplace in the lodge)
The scenery was spectacular. Just wild in every direction. Most of the time we couldn’t see anything human-made, other than the trail we were on. It was magnificent.
Wide open countryside on top of the plateauNot much out there (which is the whole point)
After two rides on the first day (morning and afternoon), totaling some 5 hours of riding, I was done in!
I hobbled back from the horse corral to the cabin, with a sore bum and sore knees. It took about an hour to straighten my legs out again!
What a great feeling though, exploring new countryside in a different and adventurous way.
Day 2 (Tuesday 8/8): Fly fishing and resting the sore bums
I woke up with sore knees (curse of the Collins knees! And an old running injury) so I decided, along with some other folks here, to skip the ride today.
Instead, I went to a fly fishing 101 clinic, which was super interesting. The act of casting in a beautiful setting is very zen. I can totally see why it appeals to people. I’m tucking it away in my back pocket as a hobby for the future, when I have more time.
Owen practicing his casting after a fly fishing lesson with guide JoshOne of the cabins after the rainstorm
Day 3 (Wednesday 8/9): Mighty views from the plateau
Lexi and I and our group explored the plateau close to the ranch, visiting the ruins of an old travelers resting post. Our guide told us that Butch Cassidy was reputed to hide out in the mountains in the distance, the Owl Creek range.
Lexi riding with the Wind River mountain range on the horizonButch Cassidy’s hideout? Not quite… this is an old store room, sunk into the earth to keep it coolWrangler Ethan (our guide that day) and Lexi taking a break
Back at the ranch we chilled out for the afternoon and enjoyed the continued break from digital screens.
The most notable event of the evening was when a chair collapsed underneath me as I sat down. No harm done, it all happened in slow motion. Shame we didn’t catch it on video as it would have been a great contender for the America’s Funniest Home Videos show.
Day 4 (Thursday 8/10): Family ride and lasso lessons
The food was exquisite, all week. This morning, eggs and corn beef hash for breakfast. Lexi and the boys had homemade crumb cake with a layer of chocolate running through the middle. Delicious!
You beautiful, magnificent beasts!
Today was the family ride day, so we rode with the boys. It was really fun to experience an adventure together. For most of the week, all the kids did rides and activities together but without the parents (with a guide of course).
We stayed in the valley and explored Spear Creek, crossing it back-and-forth numerous times. Owen was amazingly relaxed on his horse, casually sitting half to the side and only holding the reins, not holding on with his other hand. Just his style!
Our wrangler (guide) Ethan leading our family rideCrossing Spear Creek with my youngest son riding very casually!
In the afternoon, we had a lasso clinic. Yeehaw!
Lasso lessons with the wranglersOur ride to and from the airport. No messing around here, it’s 100% cowboy land.
Day 5 (Friday 8/11): Canyons & plateau ride and cowboy campfire
My favorite ride was on the Friday morning. We rode about 8 miles in 3 hours, up a spectacular gulch (canyon) and onto the plateau. We returned via a steep ridge line. It was a superb ride with incredible views of the Wind River mountain range.
Riding up the lower gulch towards the plateau in the distanceRiding through the canyon as the walls closed inEmerging from the top of the gulch. You get a good view from the top of a horse!Rich on the high plateauLexi on the high plateauAnother guest looking at the Wind River mountain range in the distanceWide open countrySteep descent, hold on tight and lean back!Descending into the red canyon near the ranchThanks for a great week, Misty!
That afternoon a group of us went for a hike up a side canyon, adjacent to the ranch. It was fun to explore on foot and needle our way up a narrow, rocky old stream bed, clambering over the rocks.
The rocky gulch we explored on footBack on the ranch
That evening — our final evening at the ranch — we all sat around the camp fire for a night of BBQ food and cowboy poetry. There were poems, stories, and songs, and much merriment.
Cowboy poetry and campfire on the final nightHappy cowboys. Great week!
We definitely all felt sad to say goodbye and head home. A great week with memories to last a lifetime.
For a sense of what the riding was like, here’s a compilation of short clips I took on my phone throughout the week:
For part I of this trip — when we went hiking in Grand Teton National Park — click here.
Our big family trip this year was to Wyoming, a new part of America for us all. It’s a long way from the east coast and really gave me a sense for how vast and varied the US is.
Down in the valley, it was fully overcast and grey. As we ascended we went into, then back out of the clouds. The views were spectacular from the top, even if most of the Teton range was still hidden by clouds.
We did a short 2-mile hike, which, truthfully, was enough given the altitude. Fantastic scenery and great to be up high again.
Hiking into the cirque of Cody PeakLooking towards Cody Peak, 10,758 ft
Of course we sampled a waffle from Corbet’s Cabin, which reminded me of charming old European alpine huts and is sadly due to be replaced, by something big, modern, and bland no doubt.
Looking out over the Jackson Hole valleyThe boys enjoyed a climbing session in Teton Village in the afternoon
Day 2
Our plan was to drive to Yellowstone and spend a day checking out they geysers. Unfortunately, the weather was miserable with a low cloud base and heavy rain. We did see a couple of moose grazing in the distance during the drive.
We drove as far as Signal Mountain Lodge, stopped for an excellent breakfast, and decided to cut our losses for the day. Spent the afternoon in the pool back at the hotel.
Although it was crowded in places, it was a fantastic hike and the scenery was sublime.
The tops of the Teton range stubbornly hid behind the clouds still, but the reflections in the alpine lakes were gorgeous.
Taggart LakeTaggart LakeMe and Lexi at Taggart Creek
We hiked 6.5 miles with 850 ft ascent, so it was a relatively easy hike even for the boys.
After 3 days in Grand Teton National Park, we still hadn’t seen Grand Teton itself, or the other highest peaks!
They appeared finally, on the morning of day 4, as we traveled east to Dubois, WY, and part II of our Wyoming trip.
Wow, they are a spectacular sight!
This trip really whet my appetite for more mountain adventures again. It’s been almost a decade since I last did any serious mountain climbing and I miss the adventure and camaraderie.
For a sense of the alpine side of the Teton mountain range, check out these inspirational articles:
A brilliant day out on the bike! One of the highlights of the summer.
Crossing Seneca Creek
I left home in the dark at 5.30 am under full lights. I reached lower town just as dawn was breaking so the lights were soon dispensed with.
Confluence of the Potomac (R) and Shenandoah (L) rivers in Harpers Ferry, WV.
Then it was onto the C&O towpath, headed downstream towards Brunswick and beyond.
Zooming along the canal 🙂Point of Rocks bridge
The park is beautiful at this time in the morning, with no-one else around, only the wildlife. As the sun rose, it peaked through the trees in glorious bursts:
The previous day a big storm hit the area around Dickerson Power Plant, so the trail was covered with downed branches and several fallen trees. It was slow going as I cleared as much of the debris out the way as I could. Several other cyclists who caught up to me helped out. We were able to leapfrog each other, taking it in turns to clear the next section.
Past this 3 – 4 mile section, the trail was clear again.
At Seneca, I split off from the canal towpath and jumped onto some singletrack: the Seneca Bluffs Trail.
This was really fun but also pretty hard work. It’s been a loooong time since I’ve been mountain biking and my skills are rather lacking.
For today, I was satisfied with a few miles of singletrack and decided to see if I could cross Seneca Creek to reach the road on the opposite bank, which would lead me back to the canal.
I scouted it first, without the bike. It was fast flowing but not particularly strong and never more than knee deep. It would definitely go.
Crossing Seneca Creek with the bike
On the far bank I had about 1/4 mile of bushwhacking to reach the road. I pushed, swore, and sweated my way along a vague trail to the road.
I thoroughly enjoyed this section!
After all this excitement, I had the relatively easy task of 40 ish miles back along the canal to home. The main challenge was surviving the heat.
My phone said it was 96 F and 104 F with the humidity. Much too hot for an Englishman.
I was out of water by the time I reached White’s Ferry, so I stopped here to refill. (I drank 7 large bike bottles and a bottle of coke during the day and still ended up dehydrated.)
View of the Monocacy River, which feeds into the Potomac, from the Monocacy AcqueductSmiling despite the crushing heat
I felt good until the final hill in Harpers Ferry, which had no shade. I really suffered in the heat and, sure enough, I had a headache by the time I got home.
A small price to pay for a fantastic day out!
I took a few videos during the ride, which I share below.
(There’s no coherent storyline, so it’s probably pretty tedious footage for everyone except me. But, one day, when I’m old and can’t ride a bike anymore, it’ll bring me some joy.)
Chuck invited me to join him on an overnight bike trip on the C&O canal, starting from Hancock, MD, heading up the river to Indigo Neck campground.
I haven’t visited this area since the 2014 tour with my brother, so I jumped at the chance to see an unfamiliar part of the C&O national park.
Day 1: Hancock, MD, to Indigo Neck Campground, 15 miles
It was blazing hot as we got ready in Hancock (around 85 F perhaps) so it was a welcome relief to start cycling and get into the shade of the woods.
It felt more remote and wild than sections of the towpath near Harpers Ferry. We only saw one other person the entire time.
With Chuck at the parking lot in Hancock, about to set offEnjoying the shade along the C&O canalRound Top Cement MillSideling Hill Creek flowing into the Potomac river
It was hot and dry when we got to camp and thankfully the bugs were minimal.
With the long hours of daylight at this time of year, it was a leisurely afternoon setting up the tent and having dinner.
Indigo Neck hiker biker siteFirst job after getting the tent up: collect and filter water from the pump
Chuck brought a folding saw, which we put to good use cutting firewood for the campfire. (Pro tip: A squirt of lighter fluid helps get damp wood going!)
Fire! View from my tent towards the rest of the campsite
As the evening wore on, the birds became more vocal with the whippoorwills dominating the song.
The campfire was our focal point as we shared tales and watched the flames turn wood to ash as day gave way to night.
There’s something mesmerizing about a good campfire
Day 2: Indigo Neck Campground to home, 82 miles
I woke to light rain on the fly. I headed to the picnic bench and made hot granola and coffee for breakfast. The rain continued through the morning, necessitating a waterproof jacket but never heavy enough to be unpleasant.
Brenda, another bike tourer, was away first that morning at 8.30. Chuck and I were away a bit after 9.
Since we’d ridden the canal towpath into Indigo Neck campground the day before, we decided to ride the parallel Western Maryland Rail Trail (WMRT) on the return to Hancock. The WMRT is paved, which was a benefit as the rain steadily increased.
Chuck on the Western Maryland Rail Trail
It’s a beautiful ride through mountainous western Maryland. Being an old rail line, there is virtually no ascent or descent, so it’s an easy ride.
It was much cooler than the day before with low mist clinging to the mountain sides, which made the whole place look like the set of Jurassic Park.
Crossing over Sideling Hill CreekLooking out from the rail trail at the Sideling Hill Creek Aqueduct and Potomac RiverMe and ChuckAn Eastern Tent Caterpillar (I think!)Chuck riding past a giant rockfall on the Western Maryland Rail Trail
I said goodbye to Chuck in Hancock, where he stopped at his truck.
I continued, planning to ride all the way home, which would be about 80 miles total for the day, the furthest I’ve ridden since 2014!
Signs every few miles along the WMRTTypical scenery on the southern end of the WMRT. I didn’t see a single other cyclist or walker outside of Hancock.Smiling during a lull in the rain
I rode to the terminus of the WMRT, having missed the connection to the C&O canal about a mile earlier. I was loathe to backtrack so I rode through Fort Frederick State Park to regain the canal at the far end of Big Pool.
From there I rode the towpath along the river’s edge and in and out of the woods.
Aside from one large group, the trail was mostly empty and I enjoyed miles of solitude. The rain fell heavily at times, and the trail was muddy, but I love these kinds of conditions as they remind me of home.
Cliffs along the side of the PotomacThe impressive Dam 5Beautiful riding along the newly restored section of the towpath near to McMahon’s Mill
The riding was super fun until around mile 70, once I was on familiar ground past Shepherdstown. Then my legs began to ache. And ache.
The last few miles into Harpers Ferry were hard. It doesn’t seem to matter how long a ride is — 50 miles, 80 miles, 100+ miles — the last 10 miles always feel hard.
The trails were rather muddy with the rain!One filthy bike, sign of a good adventure!Snake sighting! An eastern ratsnake close to Lock 37
Overall, this was an excellent mini bike tour with friends.
I explored a local area that I’ve only visited once before, many years ago, so it felt like new terrain. Plus, 80 miles in the rain on mostly muddy gravel was a solid challenge that had me digging deep, which is exactly the sensation I’m searching for.
Ben Collins Outdoors 