I’m writing this on 14th March and it’s 76F! I think winter is over for this year 😉
Suffice to say, it was another short winter, like last year. In fact, winter didn’t start properly until the first snowfall on 6th January and it was all over by the end of that month. But we did have more snow than last year at least, so I’ll give this year a C+ grade rather than an F.
Some highlights from this season:
6 January 2024: Stone Fort loop
9.1 miles / 1,969 ft ascent / 4 hrs 7 minutes
Enjoyable walk in a couple of inches of fresh snow.
On top of the Maryland Heights ridge (Stone Fort loop)Panorama from Maryland Heights, with the Potomac River (right), Harpers Ferry (middle), Shenandoah River (coming in from the middle) and Loudoun Heights (left)Lower town Harpers Ferry and the confluence of the Potomac (bottom) and Shenandoah (top) rivers
Bolivar Heights panorama (click to enlarge)The cannons at Bolivar Heights
19 January 2024: Snowy Loudoun Heights
7.9 miles / 1,695 ft ascent / 4 hrs 16 minutes
The most wintry hike, with about 3 inches of fluffy snow on the ground.
Split Rock / AT junctionEssential winter gear: poles and a flask of tea!Harpers Ferry from Split Rock lookoutClose up of the cliffs above the railway line on Maryland Heights
On the west slopes of Bolivar Heights, looking SWThe cannons at Bolivar Heights at sunset
24 January 2024: Snowy Twin Peaks (Loudoun Heights and Stone Fort loop)
14.7 miles / 3,029 ft / 6 hrs 23 minutes
Sunrise from the side of Maryland Heights on my way up the Stone Fort loopSunrise from the top of the Stone Fort loop, Maryland HeightsThis walk was the only time I needed the traction spikes this season 😦The snow turned to slush on the way downA frozen creek on the way up Loudoun HeightsLooking across to Maryland Heights from the shoulder of Loudoun Heights
Otherwise, we had plenty of non-snowy adventures in the hills and along the C&O towpath during the “winter” season. Hopefully, and I say this every year, we get a bit more snow next year!
A video and photo essay from a quick overnight bike tour. I left around 3pm on Monday and was home less than 24 hours later. It’s phenomenal how much adventure and inspiration you can pack into such a short window.
Day 1: Harpers Ferry to Cumberland Valley Hiker Biker campsite
36.86 miles / 124 ft ascent / 3 hrs 15 minutes moving / 3 hrs 51 minutes elapsed
Day 1 was a race against time to make it to the campsite before dark. I made it with just enough time to pitch my tent, but cooked and ate in the dark. I ended up pitching my tent in the exact same spot that I used on the first night of last year’s Bike SUP tour.
Heading upstream towards ShepherdstownLockhouse at Canal Lock 37, near DarganThe Surly Grappler in full cryGlad I threw this light rain jacket in at the last second as I was drenched by a couple of showers during the afternoon.The leaves were inches thick on the ground in places. Slightly surreal, like riding on snow. Beautiful conditions.Moody sky from dam 4The super cool raised towpath above the river at Big Slackwater, one of the highlights of the whole C&O canal towpath.Looking downstream at Big SlackwaterLockhouse at Canal Lock 43Racing to beat the darkness and get to Cumberland Valley hiker biker campsiteCamp at Cumberland Valley Hiker Biker campsitePro tip for getting water from the pumps… use a funnel to speed up the process!Making dinner in the dark. The chili dish was delicious.
Day 2: Cumberland Valley to Williamsport, then return to Harpers Ferry
47.85 miles / 431 ft ascent / 4 hrs 29 minutes moving / 6 hrs 8 minutes elapsed
It was fairly cold in the morning so I didn’t rush. I enjoyed breakfast from the warmth of my sleeping bag before breaking camp. I rode up to Williamsport to check it out before turning around and riding home.
Camp on the morning of day 2Breakfast on day 2Back in my sleeping bag to enjoy the coffee! ☕Good morning from camp on day 2Beautiful sunrise on the river. So calm and peaceful!Stunning morning on the Potomac RiverPassing under the I81 bridge on the way up to WilliamsportConococheague Aqueduct at Williamsport, where I turned around for home.The derelict R. Paul Smith Power Station at WilliamsportLock 44 on the C&O canalMile 92.5, the mid-point of the C&O canalBack at Big Slackwater but heading downstream, and the sun is shining! The section around Big Slackwater never disappoints.Riding the elevated trail at Big Slackwater, one of the best sections of the C&O CanalMcMahon’s MillCave biking? Exploring one of the many caves along this section of the routeOne of the bigger cavesCrunching across a carpet of golden leavesTime for a final brew before home, at Big Woods campsiteThe serene Potomac River from near Dargan
Bike Setup
For this tour, I ran a set of front low rider panniers to hold sleeping gear and clothes. They’re a pair of 20-year old Vaude Sport panniers — veterans of my Norway tour — that are still going strong!
The Revelate Designs main triangle frame bag held camp stuff and tent poles. The seat pack held the tent and cook pot. I used the extra bottle bosses on the rear triangle to hold two bottles, although they were inaccessible whilst riding. But that’s not an issue on a tour like this where I’m making frequent stops to explore and take photos.
Bike / 141.7 miles / 3,265 ft ascent / 11 hrs 05 min moving / 12 hrs 54 min elapsed
Feeling vaguely fit after the recent Gran Fondo ride, I wanted to tick off another big ride before the end of the summer.
I’ve ridden a similar loop to this one twice before, although starting from DC both times and turning around at Point of Rocks rather than Harpers Ferry (first time was a 2-day tour, second time as a 130+ mile single day).
I left early, but not alpine-start early now that the heat was back to normal levels instead of head-meltingly hot. As I rode the C&O canal into DC, I thought there was no way I could complete the full distance. I just didn’t feel that good. But I reminded myself that it often feels like this on longer rides, you just gotta ride into it. Sure enough, as I got further into the ride I actually felt better. Miles 20 – 40 were some of the hardest of the whole ride.
At Brunswick 7.30am. Feeling ok, but honestly feeling like I had no idea how I was going to ride 140 miles that day. The only thing you can do is ride to the next checkpoint, then keep going and pick off the next one. Repeat until you get to the end of the ride. Simple, really.Point of Rocks bridge in the morning lightMy trusty Cannondale Caadx, still going strong after 10 years. A perfect bike for this kind of mixed surface riding.Potomac River Gorge, from Mary’s Wall in Great Falls ParkEnjoying the serenity for a few seconds. Great Falls is always crowded on the weekend.Lockhouse 6 along the C&O canal
I had a great cake and coffee stop in Georgetown, DC, at High Road Cycling cafe. I was envious of the cyclists who get to ride from there and hang out there. But 5 minutes later, when I was dealing with the DC traffic, I realized that it’s a perk I’m willing to sacrifice to live out in the countryside where the riding is 🤌
Coffee and cake in Georgetown at the excellent High Road Cycling cafe (no longer open)
The section through DC on the Mount Vernon trail was pure madness on this Saturday lunchtime. Bikes and people flying in every direction, strollers meandering aimlessly through bike lanes, people stepping out to take selfies, etc., etc. You gotta keep your wits about you!
It quietened down when I turned on to the Four Mile run trail and then the W&OD.
Rosslyn skyline from the DC side of the Potomac River. Lots of memories from living here.The Washington Monument from the Mount Vernon trail. Very busy on a Saturday afternoon.
From the Mount Vernon trail, I jumped across to the much quieter Four Mile Run trail, which follows the Four Mile Run creek. It’s surprisingly wild amongst the dense suburbia on each side. I love these kinds of trails that snake through dense urban areas, which I think stems from when I lived in London and used to explore the canals of East London.
Four Mile Run trail
I really enjoyed riding the W&OD again, such a great trail. It gets better as you get further out, with fewer road intersections and fewer people. I rode slowly to ensure I had enough energy to make it home. Didn’t want to collapse into a heap on the side of the road somewhere and have to call for a pick up.
The half-way point and feeling somewhat relieved to have made it this far. 70 miles down, 70 to go!The W&OD trail is a fantastic trail through the super busy NoVA area. Miles and miles of this. Very scenic, if you can look past the powerlines. It felt interminable though, with the mile markers passing very slowly.Plenty of history along the route, although I just kept cycling and snapped this pic as I went past. Someday I’ll learn to slow down and take it all in 😉Smiths Switch Station, where I refilled with waterBetween Leesburg and Purcellville, the trail is very pretty.One of the hardest aspects of these longer rides is taking on enough calories. After a while, all the energy bars and electrolyte drinks become unpalatable. Time to go back to basics with a ham and cheese bagel!
At the end of the W&OD, I had 20 miles of backroads to reach the C&O again. I didn’t know what to expect, I was mostly just hoping that the traffic was light. And gladly, it was! The roads were fantastic for riding (if you like gravel) and, apart from a few mega bumpy washouts, were in good shape. Plus, the evening light was divine so that was a nice bonus.
From Purcellville I had ~25 miles to get home, mostly on super quiet back roads, most of which were gravel.Beautiful evening for a ride and still feeling quite chipper after 110 milesThe scenery and evening light were sublime, making for really fun miles.Cruising along the gravel roads and enjoying the views
I raced to Brunswick to see if I could catch the sunset from a vantage point by the river, but this train crossing thwarted me. I was stuck here for 5 minutes. When I reached the canal again, I raced to find a break in the trees to see the sunset but I was slightly too late. C’est la vie!
Brunswick train crossingFinal miles along the canal to race home. It was much darker than the photo suggests by this point.The best sunset photo I could get… in person, it was beautiful.
After all that sprinting, I realized I was pretty tired, so I cruised the last couple of miles to home under lights.
Great day out on the bike!
I think I’ll make this an annual ride and try to do it a little quicker next time.
This post is a collection of photos and anecdotes from a terrific week of horse riding on a dude ranch with my wife’s family.
Spectacular scenery on the drive from Jackson to Dubois
Arrival at Lazy L&B Ranch in Dubois, WY (Sunday)
After a spectacular drive past Grand Teton National Park and along the Wind River valley we arrived at Lazy L&B Ranch, our home for the week.
We were greeted with homemade cookies and hot tea, which bode well for the week ahead. The setting was idyllic. There was no cellphone reception and the only wifi was in the main lodge, so we were freed from our digital shackles for the week. Perfect!
The main lodge at Lazy L&B ranchYes, the fire was very welcome, even in the middle of August!
Day 1 (Monday 8/7): Stunning scenery, sore bums, and storms
We awoke to mixed weather for our first day of riding. Hot one minute, cold the next. Dry and wet. Calm and windy. It changed every 30 minutes.
Spear Creek and the storm on the afternoon of day 1
It was time to don our new cowboy boots, mount our horses and head off into the wilderness!
There’s no gentle introduction. Immediately after leaving the ranch we cross Spear Creek. Hang on tight, here we go!
I didn’t have any expectations coming into the week — and honestly, was apprehensive about riding horses again after a break of probably 30+ years — so I was pleasantly surprised how rugged and adventurous the rides were.
Our first of many crossings of Spear Creek on the horses, moments after leaving the ranchA 3,000 year old petroglyph carved into the rock cliffs above Spear Creek (a reproduction can be seen above the fireplace in the lodge)
The scenery was spectacular. Just wild in every direction. Most of the time we couldn’t see anything human-made, other than the trail we were on. It was magnificent.
Wide open countryside on top of the plateauNot much out there (which is the whole point)
After two rides on the first day (morning and afternoon), totaling some 5 hours of riding, I was done in!
I hobbled back from the horse corral to the cabin, with a sore bum and sore knees. It took about an hour to straighten my legs out again!
What a great feeling though, exploring new countryside in a different and adventurous way.
Day 2 (Tuesday 8/8): Fly fishing and resting the sore bums
I woke up with sore knees (curse of the Collins knees! And an old running injury) so I decided, along with some other folks here, to skip the ride today.
Instead, I went to a fly fishing 101 clinic, which was super interesting. The act of casting in a beautiful setting is very zen. I can totally see why it appeals to people. I’m tucking it away in my back pocket as a hobby for the future, when I have more time.
Owen practicing his casting after a fly fishing lesson with guide JoshOne of the cabins after the rainstorm
Day 3 (Wednesday 8/9): Mighty views from the plateau
Lexi and I and our group explored the plateau close to the ranch, visiting the ruins of an old travelers resting post. Our guide told us that Butch Cassidy was reputed to hide out in the mountains in the distance, the Owl Creek range.
Lexi riding with the Wind River mountain range on the horizonButch Cassidy’s hideout? Not quite… this is an old store room, sunk into the earth to keep it coolWrangler Ethan (our guide that day) and Lexi taking a break
Back at the ranch we chilled out for the afternoon and enjoyed the continued break from digital screens.
The most notable event of the evening was when a chair collapsed underneath me as I sat down. No harm done, it all happened in slow motion. Shame we didn’t catch it on video as it would have been a great contender for the America’s Funniest Home Videos show.
Day 4 (Thursday 8/10): Family ride and lasso lessons
The food was exquisite, all week. This morning, eggs and corn beef hash for breakfast. Lexi and the boys had homemade crumb cake with a layer of chocolate running through the middle. Delicious!
You beautiful, magnificent beasts!
Today was the family ride day, so we rode with the boys. It was really fun to experience an adventure together. For most of the week, all the kids did rides and activities together but without the parents (with a guide of course).
We stayed in the valley and explored Spear Creek, crossing it back-and-forth numerous times. Owen was amazingly relaxed on his horse, casually sitting half to the side and only holding the reins, not holding on with his other hand. Just his style!
Our wrangler (guide) Ethan leading our family rideCrossing Spear Creek with my youngest son riding very casually!
In the afternoon, we had a lasso clinic. Yeehaw!
Lasso lessons with the wranglersOur ride to and from the airport. No messing around here, it’s 100% cowboy land.
Day 5 (Friday 8/11): Canyons & plateau ride and cowboy campfire
My favorite ride was on the Friday morning. We rode about 8 miles in 3 hours, up a spectacular gulch (canyon) and onto the plateau. We returned via a steep ridge line. It was a superb ride with incredible views of the Wind River mountain range.
Riding up the lower gulch towards the plateau in the distanceRiding through the canyon as the walls closed inEmerging from the top of the gulch. You get a good view from the top of a horse!Rich on the high plateauLexi on the high plateauAnother guest looking at the Wind River mountain range in the distanceWide open countrySteep descent, hold on tight and lean back!Descending into the red canyon near the ranchThanks for a great week, Misty!
That afternoon a group of us went for a hike up a side canyon, adjacent to the ranch. It was fun to explore on foot and needle our way up a narrow, rocky old stream bed, clambering over the rocks.
The rocky gulch we explored on footBack on the ranch
That evening — our final evening at the ranch — we all sat around the camp fire for a night of BBQ food and cowboy poetry. There were poems, stories, and songs, and much merriment.
Cowboy poetry and campfire on the final nightHappy cowboys. Great week!
We definitely all felt sad to say goodbye and head home. A great week with memories to last a lifetime.
For a sense of what the riding was like, here’s a compilation of short clips I took on my phone throughout the week:
For part I of this trip — when we went hiking in Grand Teton National Park — click here.
Our big family trip this year was to Wyoming, a new part of America for us all. It’s a long way from the east coast and really gave me a sense for how vast and varied the US is.
Down in the valley, it was fully overcast and grey. As we ascended we went into, then back out of the clouds. The views were spectacular from the top, even if most of the Teton range was still hidden by clouds.
We did a short 2-mile hike, which, truthfully, was enough given the altitude. Fantastic scenery and great to be up high again.
Hiking into the cirque of Cody PeakLooking towards Cody Peak, 10,758 ft
Of course we sampled a waffle from Corbet’s Cabin, which reminded me of charming old European alpine huts and is sadly due to be replaced, by something big, modern, and bland no doubt.
Looking out over the Jackson Hole valleyThe boys enjoyed a climbing session in Teton Village in the afternoon
Day 2
Our plan was to drive to Yellowstone and spend a day checking out they geysers. Unfortunately, the weather was miserable with a low cloud base and heavy rain. We did see a couple of moose grazing in the distance during the drive.
We drove as far as Signal Mountain Lodge, stopped for an excellent breakfast, and decided to cut our losses for the day. Spent the afternoon in the pool back at the hotel.
Although it was crowded in places, it was a fantastic hike and the scenery was sublime.
The tops of the Teton range stubbornly hid behind the clouds still, but the reflections in the alpine lakes were gorgeous.
Taggart LakeTaggart LakeMe and Lexi at Taggart Creek
We hiked 6.5 miles with 850 ft ascent, so it was a relatively easy hike even for the boys.
After 3 days in Grand Teton National Park, we still hadn’t seen Grand Teton itself, or the other highest peaks!
They appeared finally, on the morning of day 4, as we traveled east to Dubois, WY, and part II of our Wyoming trip.
Wow, they are a spectacular sight!
This trip really whet my appetite for more mountain adventures again. It’s been almost a decade since I last did any serious mountain climbing and I miss the adventure and camaraderie.
For a sense of the alpine side of the Teton mountain range, check out these inspirational articles:
Ben Collins Outdoors 